Palma Diary, February/March 2019 – An Englishman abroad
Day 3 – Monday
Today I’m off to Puigpunyent to visit Cas Cerveser. I get to the bus station in good time, but there is no sign of the bus on the listings, so I go back to the information point and she says it should definitely be there. I go back and confirm it is not listed. I ask a bus driver and he points to a minibus which is about to leave. I hop on just in time, but there’s no explanation as to why it’s not on the departure board. No matter, we’re off on a journey through picturesque forests and mountains to the pretty inland town of Puigpunyent.
It’s a bit of an uphill walk to the brewery, but Sebastián is waiting for me and what could be better right now than a nice cold beer? Well, three or four is the answer to that! Whilst trying the different beers, we talk at some length about the history of the brewery and his plans for the future. Sebastián shows me a shortcut back to the centre and it’s a lovely walk in the pleasant spring sunshine. I’ve plenty of time for lunch before the next bus, so I call in La Vila and have vegetable soup, pork fillet with cream, mushrooms and rice, and Mallorcan pudding (a kind of sweet bread pudding made with ensaimada). Simple, but good.
Back on the little bus to Palma. I tell them at the station about the five euros in Manacor and, after filling in a short form, I get a refund. I feel like a bit of a cheapskate, but hey, five euros is a couple of beers!
I wander down to Santa Catalina in search of Del Món Beer Shop which is supposed to be near the market at Plaça de la Navegació, but nobody has heard of the place. Then somebody suddenly realises that it’s where we are, but nobody calls it that – they just say market square! I turn the corner and there it is. This place is where Mallorca Craft Beers used to brew before closing down in 2017 and amazingly, I find one of their beers on a shelf, so I buy that together with two from another brewery – Talaiòtika – which closed recently.
Back at the hotel I photograph, then try, the beers. They’re ok, but a long time on a warm shelf hasn’t done them any favours. I freshen up, then head out to Ombu, at the foot of the Born. I’ve had morning coffee here a few times, but it’s the first time I’ve thought about dinner.
It’s really nice and atmospheric inside, much bigger than it looks from the outside, and even has an upstairs. From a large and interesting menu, I choose mini cornet filled with tuna, wasabi and apple sour, Mallorcan-style squid croquette with kaffir lime and lemongrass mayonnaise, patatas bravas with sobrasada foam and charcoal aioli, and foie gras yogurt with brioche and sweet wine, accompanied by a glass of Macià Batle Añada and a bottle of water. Finishing with a carajillo and a hierbas, this fantastic meal, in the heart of Palma, comes to just €36. I cannot fault the food, the presentation or the service and I shall definitely be coming here again.