Palma Diary, March 2016 – An Englishman abroad
Bus to Montuiri from Placa Espanya and some picturesque scenery. I naively think that the bus will stop in the market place, but no, it stops on the main carretera and I have a twenty-minute uphill walk. The market is quite small, but busy with locals. I buy a nice belt. I pop in to a local’s bar for a coffee, which comes with a little glass of orange juice and some cake. The waiter drops a glass – this seems to be almost a ritual here.
I call in to Ca’n Xorri on the corner of the marketplace opposite the church for a beer. There is quite a large terrace at the rear with nice views out over the Pla. I decide to have a pa amb oli to put me on till lunch. It could have put me on to the middle of the week! Half a loaf of bread, half a pound of ham and half a pound of cheese with olives and pickles. Absolutely marvellous and only €10 for this and two beers. I am just reflecting how nice it is to be out here off the beaten track with no tourists when they arrive……dozens of German cyclists. They are everywhere, with their bikes blocking all the doorways. Exit, stage right.
Back in Palma, I see in a shop window, some Mallorcan beer with the somewhat bizarre name of “Beer Lovers”. I check out the website and find that it is available in the Escape Bar just down the road. I try a couple of bottles and it is very good, but I am slightly alarmed to find they are €4.50 each. This would not normally be a problem and indeed quite reasonable by UK comparisons, but I have only brought limited funds for my last night out. Consequently, I have to budget carefully. I choose La Bodega for rabbit with onions “like grandma used to make”. Indeed it is; not that my grandma used to make it (well, not to my knowledge, but it’s possible, they were country folk), but it’s good honest peasant food at its best. The restaurant is small and homely with friendly staff. Nothing special, but Faustino for house wine is a nice touch and I finish with a generous shot of hierbas, the archetypical Mallorcan digestif.
After the tip, I have three 50 cent coins left!
On the way back I chance upon an Easter procession and follow it around for a while. With the cloaks and conical hats, the beating drums and the candles, it is very atmospheric. The spell is broken by shouts of “Bye bye, bye bye”. It’s the owners of the hostal who shake hands warmly and bid me farewell.
As it’s a 6am start, I get a taxi to the airport and arrive in plenty of time. The plane isn’t full, so I get a row to myself and stretch out. That’s one of the advantages of early flights.
So, pretty much the only things I didn’t mange to get are a gin-tonic and some Easter pies. Everything else ticked and more.
Adios, Palma. Hasta la próxima.
Carrer del Vi, 8, 07012 Palma
Carrer de Can Sales, 2, 07012 Palma
Calle Apuntadores, 16, 07012 Palma
Celler Sa Premsa
Plaça del Bisbe Berenguer de Palou, 8, 07003 Palma
Calle Apuntadores, 24, 07012 Palma
Plaça de la Drassana, 12, 07012 Palma
San Juan Gastronomic Market
Carrer de l’Emperadriu Eugènia, 6, 07010 Palma
Carrer Major, 2, 07230 Montuïri
Carrer dels Apuntadors, 3A, 07012 Palma